From Tom Ford’s Netflix inspiration to the return of Boho and the Fendi Baguette bag, here are the ten most important things you need to know about the spring/summer 2019 shows…
Boho Is Back
Perhaps a knee-jerk reaction to the state of global politics or just a simple desire to return to nature, a free-spirited attitude pervaded the collections through homespun details, touches of crochet, natural suede and Native American references. Even Anthony Vaccarello’s super sexy collection for Saint Laurent had a touch of the bohemian in the sheer floor-sweeping gown covered in stars, accessorised with a silver headband.
Dancers Are The New Style Icons
Both Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri and Edeline Lee took modern dance performer Pina Bausch as their inspiration for spring, referencing the dancer’s performance looks in gauzy tulle looks, stretchy headbands and clothes made to move, while David Koma looked to Carmen Amaya, the late Romani flamenco dancer, who would wear trousers in her performances to emphasize movement, and Dolce & Gabbana showed a joyous look that took inspiration from traditional flamenco costumes.
The Supers Are Super Again
After the jaw-dropping finale to Versace’s spring/summer 2018 show, where Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, and Helena Christensen, all in glittering gold lamé, closed Milan Fashion Week, Donatella Versace pulled another trick out of her hat by sending out her final look on Shalom Harlow. It’s been six years since Harlow’s last catwalk appearance and it had such an effect on the audience that, as she wrapped up her exit, she couldn’t help but start laughing.
Harlow wasn’t the only super trotted out at Versace. Late edition supermodel Freja Beha Erichsen opened the show, which also featured Emily Ratajkowski, Anja Rubik, Natasha Poly, Mariacarla Boscono, the Hadids, Cindy Crawford’s lookalike daughter Kaia Gerber and Liya Kebede.
Not to be outdone, Dolce & Gabbana opened with Monica Belluci, followed by Eva Herzigova, Helena Christensen and Carla Bruni, and Isabella Rossellini took a spin on the catwalk with her daughter, Elettra Wiedemann, and grandson, Ronin.
Elsewhere, Salvatore Ferragamo opened with Stella Tennant and closed with Carolyn Murphy, with Karon Elson in the middle; Arizona Muse strutted down theTemperley runway; and Burberry had Natalia Vodianova, Mariacarla Boscono, Stella Tennant, Lily Aldridge, Kendall Jenner and Jourdan Dunn on its casting call sheet.
Femininity Is Making A Comeback
Whether it’s an empowering result of the #MeToo movement, or a riposte to the streetwear and normcore trends, spring’s catwalks were all afroth with frills, ruffles, flowers (a life-size wisteria tree at Delpozo and thousands of scattered petals at Dior), and sensuous silks and tulle, while pink was prevalent everywhere, from the softest marshmallow hues to flamingo and rose. Girl power is now girly power.
Bike Pants Are A Thing
The athleisure trend has evolved to now include bike pants. They appeared at Prada in opulent jacquard, Fendi, Acne, MSGM and at Roberto Cavalli, where creative director Paul Surridge put his minimalist sensibility to work in a sunflower yellow pair, worn with a matching shawl collar jacket. A trend best suited to the lithe of limb.
Tool Belts Are The New Belt Bags
Fanny packs, bum bags, belt bags… Whatever you call them, they’re here to stay. They were wrapped around the midsections and draped over the shoulders of the coolest of the style set all summer and, for spring 2019, designers like Fendi and Salvatore Ferragamo have issued an upgrade, constructing them with copious pockets to resemble the kind of utility belt a builder might don before a day’s work – and they look great. Elsewhere, more familiar belt bag styles were seen at Prada and Roberto Cavalli, while Off-White’s Virgil Abloh did his in silver leather and neon snakeskin, New York designer Christian Cowan had sparkly options encrusted with crystals, and Matthew Adams Dolan did his in denim for an artsy vibe.
Bags Are Going Hands-free
In keeping with fashion’s lighter, looser, freer mood, models sauntered down the spring 2019 catwalks with their hands free and their bags worn cross-body-style. No, cross-body bags are nothing new, but the number of designers embracing the freedom of wearing a bag thus is noteworthy.
You’ll Be Dusting Off Your Nineties It Bags
Possibly the first ever It bag, Fendi’s 1997 Baguette, made a comeback for spring 2019. Fuelled by images on Instagram of kids wearing their mother’s bags, Silvia Venturini Fendi reincarnated the style, this time around with a longer strap option, or a belt bag version. Fendi was the first major fashion house to loan clothes to ‘Sex And The City’ costume designer Patricia Field, so the baguette developed quite a profile, as did Dior’s Saddle bag which, incidentally, has also been reincarnated for next season.
Tom Ford Watches Netflix Too
Specifically, “Babylon Berlin”. The addictive show is set against the glamour, decadence and darkness of the late Weimar era, and Ford channeled those interwar silhouettes into a collection rich with corsetry, saucy lingerie-style bodysuits, lace slips, statement animal prints and seductive gowns trimmed in boudoir feathers, with lots of tuxedo jackets and most of the models sporting headscarves as a nod to the program’s flapper style.